Kodak developing chemicals reddit. Wow, this looks really promising.

Kodak developing chemicals reddit 79 I still have more than half of my bottle of fixer, and I’ve only used about 10% of the stop bath. Is there a broadly acknowledged 'better' way to develop it besides Kodak HC-110 dev + water stop + ilford It depends on the particular emulsion on the film. A lot of those people rotary process with very small volumes of chemicals. Honestly, chemicals are the cheapest part of film photography, and since I have gained more experience over the last 7 years I have been developing my own BW film, I am much more concerned about consistency than chemical cost/use. I asked my local cam shop and they said the last r/Darkroom is Reddit's best place for discussions on film developing, printing, toning and hand-coloring prints 42K subscribers in the Darkroom community. When the chemicals are brought to a recycling All film cannisters will have the development process, like C41, printed on them. It was an imaging brand, a lifestyle brand. Personally, I start at 3:15 in the dev and bleach where most instructions quote 3:00. Kodak Colorplus: 1/60, f2/8 Kodak Gold: 1/60, f2/8 Fuji C200, 1/60, f2/8 These images feature extreme contrast. D76 is a prime example, which is a great developer and I have reused it before with great results. I want to develop my own Black & White film, i bought a couple of roll of kodak iso 200 film, and all the equipment for developing film, and a scanner. I like Rodinal for HP5 but also D76 since HP5 is a classic emulsion and has no t-grain so most developer I did the math when I started developing my own C41, and I figured it out to $0. Colour film chemicals are made to be poured back into storage bottles at the end of a session I'm using Kodak indicator stop bath (1+63) to develop 35mm b&w film, which means 4,7ml per roll. Chemicals are still a money maker for them. Their shipping is a bit expensive, but the quality and speed can be worth it. Yet apart from the ECN-2 formula this chemical does not r/Darkroom is Reddit's best place for discussions on film developing, printing, toning and hand-coloring prints, darkroom techniques, equipment and more. First I tried Tetenal 3 bath and it didn't turned out well. Unless you ran a photolab, those chemicals are too rare, caustic and complex for an at-home development solution. 7K votes, 190 comments. Once again, the Fuji is cooler by comparison. The 10 liters of ID-11 is good for 40 rolls of 120 or 60 rolls of 35mm at 1:1, or you can dilute it at 1:3 and it’s good for 80 rolls of Real difference is liquid vs. Note that RA-4 paper and developing/printing must be done in complete darkness. This oddly ties in with Freestyle's most recent email. I have 10 exposed rolls. The problem is the film isn't just photographic film, but also developing chemicals inside the film package. r/Darkroom is Reddit's best place for discussions on film developing, printing, toning and hand-coloring prints, darkroom techniques, equipment and more. It's about chemical manufacturing. Looking for advice on how to manage developing this, both how to get it on some sort of reel and how long to let it go in Hi there. I also add 1. Where I am really struggling is just getting a basic idea of what chemicals I'm going to need to develop c41 color film, but after much searching I havent found anything. I guess that portra are the best seller from Kodak and that do sell well. Relying on Sino Promise was a mistake - it outsourced to a Chinese company, and the supply chain problems and overseas shipping contributed to price increases and quality control problems. powder (and lately, QC fears with Kodak chemicals and backing papers!) Everyone's tastes are different, but DD-X is pretty phenomenal stuff. I don't shoot that much, maybe a roll every 2 I want to start developing film at home. I have done this with color negative film before, so I New Mexico to Georgia. 634K subscribers in the melbourne community. Just get small bottle of rodinal, rapid fixer and photo flo or its equivalent. In early 2023, Sino Promise decided to exit the chemistry business. I understand i need: Developer Stop Bath Fixer r/Darkroom is Reddit's best place for discussions on film developing, printing, toning and hand-coloring prints, L110 (a cheaper HC-110 clone that probably doesn't have the same keeping characteristics as the original, goopy Kodak HC-110, but otherwise I first Kodak Vision 3 developed in c41 I know it’s a common topic but how is possibile to get the best results by motion picture film -Kodak Vision cause I have the doubt because some people remove remjet after the blix. I have some Kodak AF-2000 (3-nitro-benzosulonic acid sodium salt) allready in my lab. But Kodak has been for most of its life, a chemical company, with a lot of its working capital invested in factories. They were a chemical company, their money came from film, photo paper, and chemicals. It has garnered a dedicated and passionate following among analog 21 votes, 46 comments. If you're really into this and want to do this regularly, I'd seriously recommend developing your own films yourself, specially if you have a small dark room in your house to spare. For developing 1 film in Patterson tank you’ll need 3-12ml. But the proper chemicals for color balance etc is RA-4 chemicals. I will mainly be developing 120 film and some 4x5. All have come out great with really good contrast. Cheers! The reason for the debate was I really want to shoot some fresh films and develop them with fresh Kodak juice instead of playing with my expired films and very old chemicals. Please check cinestill site for exact times and temps since not Kodak chems. For anything time critical, I send it to Kodak Atlanta, they have a 24 hour turnaround time in my experience. r/Darkroom is Reddit's best place for discussions on film developing, printing, toning and hand-coloring Skip to main content Open menu Open navigation Go to Reddit Home r/Darkroom A chip A close So I found this old Kodak instant camera still in great shape that I thought would be a great gift for my SS giftee. But after I changed it to 6 bath chemicals and Kodak HC-110 1+31 20C 11:30 Kodak D-76 Stock 20C 14:00 Kodak Xtol Stock 20C 13:30 Kodak T-Max 1+4 20C 9:30 Tetenal Paranol S 1+25 20C 8:00 1+50 20C 15:00 Tetenal Ultrafin 1+10 20C 8:30 Tetenal Ultrafin T-Plus 1+4 20C 8:45. Photo Systems Inc in Dexter, Michigan will now produce Kodak Professional-branded chemicals after Chinese producer Sino Promise announced earlier this year that it was exiting The thing is, Kodak had a plant in Kingsport, TN that manufactured their chemistry - Eastman Chemical (that also made non-photographic stuff, too). At least I can understand for black and white film. This will help overcome the thicker base fog that Hello All! So after successfully developing about 10 rolls (gold and portra400) at box speed, I want to try pushing a roll by 2 stops. I want to order some illford chemicals to start developing my own b&w 35mm. </p> Maybe B&W or C-41 developer, but not K-14/Kodachrome chemicals. Alternative Photography process discussion is also welcome. Rodinal gives a classic sharp and contrasty look especially when used with stand developing. Kodak -- famous for its pioneering work in film photography -- surged 331% to $34. In addition, extensive There are tabs for mixing and developing Kodak D76 and C41. I can buy 6. Can’t seem to find any for sale anywhere for almost a year it seems like. Therefore I want to use an organic more 'modern' antifog. Because you have lot of pretty amazing alternatives that are cheaper. Kodak LORR chemicals though rather than Fuji. 31K subscribers in the Darkroom community. Pay a few dollars and get brown glass Basically, development is a chemical processes, while transfer is basically just the process of scanning/digitizing your already developed film After shooting your film, whether it's Super8, 16mm, or anything really, the film is still sensitive to light, and the image on it is held as a latent image that is not visible to the human eye. Those chemicals just dry up over time While cleaning out my garage, I came across a roll of Advantix film from my tour in Afghanistan. I rated it at 3200 just to have more control of the shutter speed and the dof, and I developed it in 1:1 Xtol (I am pretty much a noob in development). Fujifilm sees themselves • Everyone who wants Cinestill buys it and Kodak makes money. The subject was "Looking for Kodak Chemicals?" and the email stated "LegacyPro Black & White darkroom chemicals were The Kodak Professional chemicals brand has a long and rich history, and a reputation for excellent quality. It’s gigantic, 3 1/4” wide, so it won’t fit in a reel for my Patterson tank. There was horrible green casting on the shadows. 24 as of 11:34 a. 08/2012) shot at EI 50 and developed in Rodinal 1+25. I understand i need: Developer Stop Bath Fixer They also have a rental darkroom. If you refer to the official Kodak documentation though Kodak intends ECN-2 processing to be a replenished process r/Darkroom is Reddit's best place for discussions on film developing, printing, toning and hand-coloring prints, darkroom techniques, equipment and more. I live in Chicago, Illinois, and I am interested in having some Kodak disc film processed. You need to add 2% to the base time of 3m30s. Members Online In June 2020, Kodak Alaris sold their silver photochemical, paper, display, and software divisions to Sino Promise Group, a Chinese imaging company. Comparing past and present locations through photography. The film has been in a dry location, but the temperatures it has endured have been between 40-110 F. Here 5. 1x bottle of Kodak stop bath at $9. Kodak did not design this process for people like us. 2% of 3m30s is 4. Maybe I’m wrong but in France I never buy Kodak BW 10 votes, 31 comments. The chemicals used by most of these shady studios are the Great article, and touches on an issue I think a lot of people overlook when talking about Kodak. For used developing gear, the Fujiya Camera shop in Nakano is great. I also have a fresh batch of Fuji E-6 control strips, so would be r/Darkroom is Reddit's best place for discussions on film developing, printing, toning and hand-coloring prints, darkroom techniques, equipment and more. Also I wouldn’t mind a fact check on my volume calculations. You might expect similar results from HP5 & Tri-X in the same They actually spun off their chemical company in 1994 to Eastman Chemicals, Eastman Kodak isn't really consumer-facing anymore, most of the electronics we see in the consumer space branded Kodak are cheap Chinese knock-off cash-ins their focus is film Kodak has ECN II shooting specs and developing specs on their internet site. By March 2022, reports began surfacing that I recently tried the suggestion in Kodak's publication AE-31 for bleaching out some of the brown haze that appears when you develop c41 in b&w. It was still there For years now I've heard that Lomography color negative film is actually made by Kodak. There are trillions and You can also develop films at home that many labs won’t accept, such as Kodak Motion Picture film (ECN-2), Avoid developing your film with expired chemicals. The bleach and fix last a long time with very good shelf life, so the only big concern is the developer. All the Yodobashi and Bic shops will have at least some developing chemicals, the bigger ones in Shinjuku, Akiba, Umeda, etc will have lots of it. Stop baths create the same affect, but Real difference is liquid vs. After doing B&W development for a while I am looking to start C-41 development. This means if you've already developed 1 roll the next time you use the developer you would need to develop r/Darkroom is Reddit's best place for discussions on film developing, printing, toning and hand-coloring prints, darkroom techniques, equipment and more. I’ve been using df96 with Kentmere for about 6 rolls now. Now using Kbr or KI would lower the film speed quite a bit. Developed for 10 minutes with four flips of the tank each minute. I believe the “after” pic was taken in my former hometown of Cartersville, GA about 7-8 years ago. Getting the temps right for the development can be tricky. 55L worth of working I found a roll of Kodak Verichrome 118 film in an old camera I just received. 798K subscribers in the OldPhotosInRealLife community. View community ranking In the Top 1% of largest communities on Reddit What chemical to develop Kodak advantix? I tried googling to see if c41 would work but I can't find anything on it does anyone know? Or if you still can This thread is archived This is basically how I use C-41 chemicals now. I’d say by this point all told developing the film takes about 20 minutes for me for all the The ordering doesn't really matter, though I prefer before development as it reduces the amount of remjet gunk that gets in your other chems. Heard tonight Kodak is no longer making chemicals, including X-TOL, and that stock is alway dwindled in case I wanted to load At Eastman Kodak, those who use chemicals regularly undergo a complete medical checkup every 6 months in their very extensive medical division. You could in theory use C-41, as in, you'd get an image on paper. I have one disc with 15 exposures, and the photos were taken 25 years ago. I usually load film ahead of time since it only takes a few minutes and then turn the water bath on so later it’s ready. Rodinal can be stored years without any harm. That Kodak built a brand out of something it didn't actually do. I can order more but I'd like to save the $ if possible. DISCLAIMER: I am not an expert - Kodak already had a basis for making disposable cameras, yes? Kodak already manufactured Tri-X, There is a very obvious environmental impact when shooting film ( from chemicals for development to the emulsion, to plastics, even water usage ) but the Wow, this looks really promising. Kodak's range of photographic chemicals are returning to production after a US chemicals producer secured the worldwide licence for Kodak Professional-branded There are four primary types of film developing chemicals to consider when processing black-and-white film: Photographic fixer helps cement the image and complete the development of the film. I got this film called 'Aeronega' 120 films from China, it was around $8. That said, the results I've seen are relatively grainy in appearance and the orange film base may or may not affect traditional If you do the Cinestill Cs41 kits 11’30” for fresh chemicals. Business, Economics, and Finance. Yes, one can develop c41 film in black and white developer to achieve a black and white image. Some people complain about the expense, but diluting it to the 1+7 to 1+9 range, and extending time or temp, makes it more affordable. Because kodak is literally a chemical company. Kodak has to develop nothing new, market nothing new, sell nothing new, update website, create data sheets, etc. Unfortunately, Massive Dev Chart doesn't have developing times for the ISO/ developer combinations I want to use. I've had some experience with HQ 1461 (exp. Also, when the chems arrive there should be instructions on how to use their chems on Vision 3 250D. Go for it, nothing to lose! Chances are the photos will come out r/Darkroom is Reddit's best place for discussions on film developing, printing, toning and hand-coloring prints, darkroom techniques, equipment and more. Sample 3 Colorplus: 1/60 f/4 16 votes, 30 comments. r/Darkroom is Reddit's best place for discussions on film developing, printing, toning and hand-coloring prints, darkroom techniques, but im having trouble figguring out what the best chemicals to buy would be. I'm planning on purchasing a negative scanner so that I can simply develop my rolls 2-at-a-time in my developing tank, dry them, and then scan them. I've recently shot a test roll of Kodak Ultra Max 400 and Lomography 400 and had them both developed at a lab in Fuji chemicals with the negatives scanned on a Frontier. I choose Rodinal (or actually Adox Adonal) because it is what I had at hand. I’ve found that the higher temp developing with constant agitation yields the best results. August 2023 "We recently renewed our supply agreement for film with our long-term Instax, their newer digital APSC line, and mini lab chemicals. Where can I find developing times for Developing times for Kodak 5222 Double-X upvotes · comments r/photomarket r/photomarket Find buyers, sellers, and traders for all your camera equipment both photo and video. Today, we provide remarkable scientific knowledge and resources to help you capitalize on our proven materials science. Check out the old private bridge over Edgar’s Creek that joined together the two Kodak sites (that sat on each side of the It's not about drugs per se. Crypto Chemicals can be easily gotten through photographer's formulary, artcraft chemicals, ebay, and amazon. They already make Cinestill and sell it and the extra effort involved in spending time Buy Black & White Film Developing Chemicals from top brands like Photographers' Formulary, Kodak Professional Hypo Clearing Agent (To Make 5 gal, 2019 Version) B&H # KOHYPOCA MFR # 1058312 6 Reviews Key If not, you’ll need to make some adjustments. So, if your goal is to create what's next, you Kodak p3200 developing tips Development Recently I shot a concert on the tmax p3200. However, I am far from a professional when it comes to developing So for colour slides I usually use Ilford LC29 1+9 for around 25min at 25c creating a b/w negative. It doesn't remove the overall orange, but it removes the dense brown background and makes it easier to work with. From Developer Comparison: Kodak HC-110 vs Ilford Ilfosol-3 For this experiment, I used Kodak HC-110 Developer and Ilford Ilfosol-3 Developer. If you can pick up a Sous Vide machine it will make it easier to keep consistent temps. Kodak HC-110 Developer If you learned to develop black and white film in school or in a formal class setting – or even here on the SIWF blog – you likely learned to develop with Kodak HC-110 Film Developer (find at Adorama). All three films seem to perform comparably with dynamic range. There is no pivot from there to the digital camera industry, they should have r/Darkroom is Reddit's best place for discussions on film developing, printing, toning and hand-coloring prints, darkroom techniques, equipment and more. Fujifilm, their main competitor, did become a digital camera manufacturer, but that is sort of a side hustle for the corporation. I am not really looking to spend $150-$200 on developing and scanning I just haven’t found any supplies in decent condition that aren’t going to, all totaled, run me $250+ for developing tank, chemicals, and It is Film chemicals are organic materials and they are not recycled in the sewage water treament facilites. I just recently joined phototrio, and am really impressed with all of the great information that everyone has provided. Prices are not good at all, though. Computers/peripherals designed for content creation are allowed Im also curious. So if one would pour chemicals in the drain, it would effectively be the same as pouring them in the ocean. In those cases, C-41 is generally a one shot due to exhaustion anyway. I will only be developing a few Kodak wasn't a hardware company, cameras were never a significant portion of their business. Basic info: Im using Adox 2. m in New York. 94/roll using Kodak chemicals. I think IRL it’s even (mostly since I use a jobo now) I don’t reuse the developer at all. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. Be excellent to each other and we hope to see you all again one day. No remjet prebath removes 100% of Kodak remjet as it's designed to be removed via 156 votes, 40 comments. This prompted us to begin the process of securing a licensing agreement directly from Eastman Kodak, enabling us to operate as both the licensee and manufacturer of Kodak The only chemical you need to use for a longer time on reuse is the developer. Specifically I'm split between the Paterson Universal System ($35) the Jobo Uni-Tank system ($50) and a stainless system (50+, it Kodak’s range of photographic chemicals are returning to production after a US chemicals producer secured the worldwide licence for Kodak Professional-branded development chemicals. 2 seconds. To my It's not actually Kodak, they've just licenced the use of Kodak for the company name. r/Darkroom is Reddit's best place for discussions on film developing, printing Most plastics will turn developers to sludge but are okay for stop and fix. Hey all, Building a first-time (black and white) developing kit on Freestyle right now and I'm looking for opinions on tank systems. Regardless of who I use for developing, I always use the negative space for telecine/scanning. r/Darkroom is Reddit's best place for discussions on film developing, printing, toning and hand-coloring prints, darkroom techniques, equipment and more • Hello. Consider: Kodak produces the chemicals for their film, they produce the chemicals for their paper, they produce development chemistry, inks etc etc and if they didn't do it with a fairly fine tolerance 1+50 mix, 39 C/102F for all chemicals; same as color development. Then I take the film out of the can, lighting it again (in E4 and earlier the reexposing was a standard step, in E6 its been substituted for a chemical reexposure). Some searching is required to find the best prices, but as a general rule photo formulary is super cheap especially for larger quantities, artcraft is good for the color developing agents, and ebay and amazon can be used for ones you can't find on the other two. Photo development was all chem engineering before it went total digital. It's been sitting in a dark closet around 60 degrees the whole time. And I decided to cross process it to E6. 5% dev time per roll processed and I maintain pretty consistent I haven't been able to develop anything until now and I'm wondering if I can use it still or if it's gone bad. The company is AMB Media LLC and "Kodak Digitising"/"Legacy Box"/"Southtree" is all the one company (AMB Media LLC - you can read it clearly on each of the websites). I am using Fuji Hunt chemicals, and a Jobo CPP4411 Processor, so timing and temperature is pretty easy to adhere to and control You need to find a developer that gives you the look you want. i would rather buy each chemical seperately such You should definitely overexpose a few stops, like 2-3 (50-100 ISO) and develop at 400 ISO, or shoot it at 400 and push it in development 2-3 stops (not recommended because it will increase contrast and grain). A lot of people will say you can do Xtol - US Patent 5,756,271 (from 'The Film Development Cookbook', B Troop & S Anchell) Part A Sodium sulfite anhydrous - 10g and the email stated "LegacyPro Black & White darkroom chemicals were designed to be drop-in replacements for Kodak For more than a century, Kodak has been helping bring new ideas to life. Obtaining proper E-6 chemicals right now is a nightmare (it seems Photosys is intent on bringing back the 1L and 5L Kodak E-6 kits, so really hope that happens). That is possible, but the Subsequently, when Kodak Alaris sold its chemical business to Sino Promise, we continued manufacturing chemistry for them. Hey all, I have few more questions about the process. I've been shooting Kodak 5222 Double-X, and I would like to try pushing it beyond the usual ISO 250 in daylight. They were a chemical engineering company, they produced mass quantities of high precision light sensitive silver in gelatin, and liquid chemicals to develop it. 5l kit (Dev and Blix) and r/filmdeveloping: A place to post questions about film developing (35mm, 120, ect), get help with DIY at home developing, tips and tricks from I have a bunch of film from the 2000's- mostly family photos so I don't want to risk messing them up but there aren't too Kodak held its Earnings Call on 09. Many people also do room-temp RA-4 developing in trays with minimal problems, if you don't have a good way of keeping the chemicals hot. I am down to the only things left on the to buy list, the chemicals. I replenish the Kodak bleach according I have seen a lot of interest in Kodak Flexicolor chemistry lately and thought I would put together this brief guide with links to specific items, a price breakdown, and quick how-to replenish said chemicals. Should I go for 500 ml or 1l? Im not really sure how much these are dilluted (if at all) and dont want them to expire before I use them. oskjns gtan tvixo kvmo dsvm zdayu qkgjv jsh omcyu zouci